Restaurants

Interior at Orson Restaurant

From UpTake’s very own: Thomas Brown

The website for Orson matter-of-factly states they “play seriously with their food.”  They aren’t kidding:  On two recent visits, I was by turns bedazzled with whimsical presentations of traditional favorites, given a crash course in chemistry, and pleasantly startled by playful little surprises tucked away in unexpected places.  But the playing is indeed serious:  As celebrity-chef Elizabeth Falkner’s newest entry in the crowded San Francisco restaurant space, Orson showcases the best of local Bay Area foods, coupled with some impressive culinary science.

Ho-hum, you say – what’s new about local, fresh, ingredients?  We’ve reached an evolutionary plateau wherein we’ve become jaded about culinary matters such as these, so rather than fixate on the happily ubiquitous organic produce, local wines  and  house-cured meats , consider what sets Orson apart:  The playful , oftentimes artistic presentation of the high-quality ingredients we’ve come to expect.

Caeser Salad at Orson

In short, Falkner “conversationalizes” the food in unique and thought-provoking ways.  The Caesar salad was abstract deconstructionism on a plate – leaves of romaine alongside a  Kandinsky-esque tower of Parmesan, with elegant spheres of dressing that released their egg-yolk and anchovy goodness only when prodded with the tines of one’s fork.   The humble burger is elevated to lofty heights, served as it is with an elegant trio of Cobb relish, house-made steak sauce (with  a  kick) and foie mayonnaise.   That’s right, foie.   An Andouille sausage dish (better than any I’ve had in Louisiana) was topped by a playfully-poised crayfish, who looked for all the world to be doing a breast-stroke.

Sound over-the-top?

Maybe, but it illustrates the attentiveness with which Falkner lavishes on each dish.    Consider the blood orange “caviar” nestled alongside my olive oil gelato (which in turn was nestled alongside an orange sorbet, both of which accompanied a delightful dessert “risotto” – not even listed on the menu’s description, it took my palate by surprise, and the resulting visual/tactile confusion provoked a delightful game of name-that-ingredient with my companion.

There were a few disappointments on my first visit, but they aren’t worth mentioning here.  Why, you may ask?  They had vanished from the menu on my second visit, which was only five days later.  Coincidence?  I’d like to think not.

a dramatic dining experience

If the artistry on your plate isn’t enough, Orson serves up a veritable gallery of paintings and visual images.  Falkner’s father is an accomplished artist, and his paintings grace the wall.  And if you sit near the bar, you can witness a digital and video arts installation on the “Korean Wave” sponsored by the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts.  Think of is as a free art show between courses.

As an erstwhile New Yorker, I’m a bit of a snob when it comes to service.  Too many San Francisco restaurants take the California “laid back” ethos to extreme, and in so doing overlook those subtle  refinements that can make the difference between a merely good meal and a phenomenal experience.  On my first visit, our server was a walking encyclopedia of culinary science; but more importantly, he hit all the right notes service-wise, having perfected the ever-present yet unobtrusive balance.  On my second visit, the host, Scott, recognized me immediately and not only welcomed me back, but even humored me with a brief tour and a description of the restaurant’s genesis.

After my meal,  Ms. Falkner  herself came to my table to say hello.    She shared some of her thoughts on the California restaurant scene, and was also kind enough to explain some of the more abstruse techniques she employs.  “Spherification,” it turns out, results from a chemical reaction between compounds that occur in many  foods; namely, calcium chloride and sodium alginate.  Huh?!

My message to Ms. Falkner:  I was never any good at chemistry, which is why I didn’t become a doctor like my family wanted.  I did, however, become a foodie – and you have won my heart.

Orson Restaurant
http://www.orsonsf.com
508 4th Street
San Francisco
(415) 777-1508
Tuesday-Saturday 5-10pm

Photo Credits to Orson website